Making sectional track look more realistic Part 2

The first step to making sectional (or flex) track look better is to get rid of the end ties where the rail joiners slip over the rails. Use flush cutting nippers to remove these, as shown here

After the track is laid and the rail joiners are in place, separate ties can be slid under the rail joiners. They will look much more realistic and will help to hide the train set look.

Next, also using flush cutting nippers, remove the webbing between the ties on the bottom of the rail.

This can take some time, but it is well worth the finished look.

Since prototype track rarely has super uniform tie spacing, randomize the tie spacing. Make some ties crooked, some closer together and others further apart. Tie spacing and uniformity will depend on if the section of modeled track represents a mainline, branchline or a spur track. Mains tend to have more uniform tie spacing, branchlines less, and spur tracks even less.

Finally, alter the ties themselves. Again, depending on if you're modeling a main, branch or spur, some ties will be broken in half, shorter than others, VERY crooked, or missing all together.

Here's an example of a piece of sectional track that I intend to use on a branchline on my layout.

Once this track is laid and ballasted, the effect is far more realistic than unaltered sectional track. Another benefit of sectional track altered in this way is that it becomes like flextrack and can be bent to curves if need be.

Don't forget to paint the ties and rails and weather everything, including the ballast, after your track is laid.

Making sectional track look more realistic Part 1

Most model railroaders use flextrack for the majority of their track work, it is easy to work with and gives fairly good results. But don't overlook regular old sectional track (such as that made by Atlas and others) for background areas or if you need a short section of track and don't want to cut into a 36" piece of flex.

Most sectional track (as well as some flextrack) looks too "train set ish" as it comes from the manufacturer. It can, however, be vastly improved with a little bit of work. As can most types of flextrack (these same techniques apply to most flextrack too). These techniques can be a bit time consuming, so they're mostly for people who count their hobby dollars instead of their hobby time.

First, take a look at the section of track (sectional or flex). It looks too uniform, too perfect, as seen in these photos.

It looks nothing like REAL railroad track. Next we'll cover some ideas on how to make it look more realistic.

Sources of low cost cardstock

Although it is often forgotten about today, cardstock can be a useful modeling material. In reading through older issues of model railroading magazines, I find that cardstock used to be a standard material in our hobby. It can be used to represent a variety of surfaces and is probably most useful for modeling buildings and scenic features.

I'm not sure about your local hobby shop, but mine simply doesn't carry any type of cardstock, only styrene.

To obtain cheap (mostly free) sheets of cardstock, look no further than your kitchen.

Cereal boxes, toaster pastry boxes, side dish boxes, even 12 pack beer boxes all contain useful size pieces of cardstock. Different brands and items will come in different thicknesses, so start saving those boxes.

All it takes is a pair of scissors to turn a few empty boxes into a stack of useful materials for your next modeling project.

MPB

Emery boards as low cost sanding sticks

Don't overlook common emery boards (the kind sold for fingernail sculpting) for use in sanding your model work.

They're low cost (the ones my wife buys are about 20 for $1.00), can be cut to fit in tight places, and come in various grades/grits. Various sizes are also available.

The ones I'm currently using have a different grit on each side. I'm not sure (as it doesn't list a grit on the package) but they seem to be roughly 100 and 150 grit.

One advantage of emery boards, besides their cost, is that they are rigid, unlike sandpaper.

Give emery boards a try, or at least keep this idea in your bag of tricks.

MPB